13 Oct Kathmandu to Barpak
Today was an early start. Up at 5am for the bus trip at 6am from Kathmandu to Barpak. It’s 177km that we are told is rough and windy.
The rest of the Trekking team have now joined us. We have head guide Bhire, two assistant guides, Tharse and Dharpason, and four porters.
The porters loaded all the gear in the bus along with us. The first manuver was to reverse up. The drivers assistant acted as reversing camera. He jumped out, then ran to the back of the bus. He tapped the back of the bus every few seconds too indicate all was ok. He then ran to catch up with the bus as it doesn’t wait for him.
Lots of manauvering through the Kathmandu traffic. Everyone is mostly tolerant and just avoid each other. Despite the three abreast passing technique.
The bus has multiple air horns. One is a “happy” set that the driver uses to warn and thank people. It plays a tune. There is also the “unhappy” one. This is used to chastise others for their recalcitrant behaviour. It has no tune, just a loud raspberry.
The Kathmandu to Phokra road is extremely busy. Hundreds of trucks, buses and motorbikes all jostling for position.
Just before lunch we left the Phokra road and most of the traffic. The road was much narrower and deteriorated as we headed further up the Daraudi khola (stream) valley.
We stopped at a small roadside Cafe for our first lunch of Dhal Bhat (rice and lentils). It was very tasty with side dishes of chicken and a chopped green that was similar to silver beet.
After a lot of narrow and bumpy episodes with bridges and other trucks the road left the khola. Only 10km to go. And the road was concreted.
We soon found out why. It climbed a 1000m in the 10km and did 26 switchbacks across the face of a very steep ridge. In places the road had been washed away by rains and had only recently been been temporarily repaired. We were all glad to finally arrive at Barpak. It was now 14.45, the 177km took nearly nine hours.
We all had time for a wander around the village. Most of it had been destroyed by the earthquake in 2015. Lots of new buildings. The Manaslu circuit we are walking is becoming more popular. So more tourist accommodation.
Dinner was Buff Dhal Bhat (Buffalo with Dhal Bhat)
Luckily for us the cloud that had been sitting on the nearby peaks had lifted, we had good views of the snow capped Bhauda Himal (6672m) before we went to bed.
14 Oct Barpak to Shinghla
A nice clear day greeted us this morning. Excellent views of Bhauda Himal.
We had a choice of breakfast this morning. The museli with cold milk was pretty good. Had dried fruit bits in it. To follow we had onion omlett and mint tea. Jake had Tibetan bread. It’s a huge flat bread made from millet and I think deep fried. It looked very chewey. He smothered it in honey.
The road from Barpak continues up a long way to a view point. The Trekking company had organised three Jeeps to transport us all up to the view point at 2800m. It is a narrow twisting route with huge drop off’s and many switchbacks. Some we had to reverse to get around. Pauline was not impressed when the driver who had been giving a running dialogue answered his mobile and kept driving with one hand.
From here we started the walk. Fantastic views of Ganesh NW 7118m and Pabil 7104m. Then it was down, down to Laprak for lunch.
Then it was down, down, down to the Machaa khola. 1236m down for the day. Followed by a 720m climb to Shighla to the only hotel in town.
The local women’s group asked if we would like to see some traditional dancing. They were raising money to help local people.
We expected a few of the local women to turn up. Instead women and kids all started to stream into the dining area. Along with one guy carrying a huge speaker. All of the older ones were in traditional dress and took up residence along the far wall. I think every woman in the village came. All up we think there was over 100 locals in the room.
We were all presented with a garland of flowers and the head lady gave a short speech. Then the dancing begun. After a few sets they managed to get a lot of our crew up dancing as well. Including the guide, Sherpas and porters.
A fun night was had by all and the ladies managed to collect well over $100.
15 Oct Shinghla to Khoralbesi
We are getting in a rhythm now. Up at 6.15. Pack up the duffle for the porters. Then down for breakfast.
Today was a Lot of down. 1651m down in 8.5km. Spectacular views of the mountains most of the way.
The local villages were busy harvesting Soy Beans.
There were a lot of tired legs by the time we made it into Khoralbesi.
16 Oct Khoralbesi to Salleri
All our washing was still damp this morning. Much more humid down in the river valley. There is a large bunch of bannans hanging over the track to our room that you have to dodge. The accommodation is primarily a fish farm. Lots of tanks and running water. The fish curry last night was delicious.
We are now on the main Manaslu circuit. So, lots of other trekkers and porters. It’s easy to loose track of the others in our group amongst the crowd.
We are following the road instead of the Trekking trail. When I say road I mean rocky 4×4 track.
Pauline has had some issues with her knee after all the downhill of the past two days. The road is 1.5 hrs shorter and flatter to walk on (no steps) instead of the Trekking trail.
There are lots of donkey trains carring supplies up and back. Along with a few Jeeps carting people. The locals often use a 4×4 tractor and trailer. This always seems to have a lot more passengers than you would expect. They all look happy to be cruising around (all men)
There are also a lot of motorbikes on the trail. None of them are trail bikes. Usually a small Honda or similar. The riders usually have helmets. The passengers never do and are usually carrying something that would be lethal if they came off. They manage to bounce and spin their way over the rocks, up the steep inclines and through the many creek crossings.
One of the donkeys appeared to be unwell. The handler spent a long time trying to catch it and pour some liquid down its throat. It was not happy. He still loaded it up and it headed off with the others in the group. So, maybe it’s just cantankerous.
At a couple of points the track went under a Waterfall. Everyone covered their pack with a cover and hurried through.
Near the end of the day we passed the local hydro station. Then over another long suspension bridge.
17 Oct Salleri to Pewa
A long day following the Budhi Gandaki river upstream. 16km, 1300m to 1700m. With a lot of up and down in between.
We had blue skies again. To the north we can see Chamar at 7100m. It’s snow peak dominates the skyline.
The first stop of the day is at Philim Village after crossing a long suspension bridge. Hot lemon tea while we watched the other trekkers wander by. Jake managed to bargain for a hand of bannans with an enterprising young man. 400 rupees. Which is about what you would pay in Australia.
As we climbed we could hear the sound of machinery. On the opposite bank of the river a team from the Nepal army was constructing a new road. They are working along a sheer cliff face a few hundred meters above the river. An excavator and some workers were drilling holes to blast a groove along the face for the road. They expect to take 10 years to build the road. It is intended to go all the way to China.
There were many more trekkers now. We were getting occasional traffic jams where the track had washed away and was quite narrow. A lot of them had gotten a jeep ride up to Khorlabesi so this was the first day on the Trek so not very confident when it was narrow with a 100m sheer drop into the river.
We finally arrived at the Five Sisters Tea House at about 3pm. Nice place except for the weird plumbing in the shower. It had a gas fired hot water service with a hand shower that was set at 65 deg. No cold water was plumbed in to mix with it. You had to mix it manually in a big tub and pour over yourself with a small bucket.
18 Oct Pewa to Bihi
Breakfast this morning was museli with milk and an omlett. Topped off with Masala tea. Dinner last night was also excellent.
We have been meeting up with a nice couple from Newcastle. Today we noticed that her pack had never been adjusted properly. We went into action, shortened the frame and adjusted the harness for her. We saw her later in the day, she was a happy camper.
Salleri was the end of the current road. Everything from here up has to be carried by donkeys or porters. We are seeing a lot more donkey trains. I think this is why the Tea Houses now have expansive vegetable gardens. We could see beans, cabbage, diakon, tree tomato, chilli, pumpkin, lotus, carrots.
The suspension bridges are really something. The spans are often well over 100m and hundreds of meters above the river. They all have solid steel deck and mesh sides. Some of the ones yesterday are at the bottom of huge cliffs. Occasionally a rock fall will hit the bridge deck. This bends and sometimes punctures through the decking. Most of the time they leave the rocks there to fill the hole in!
Because we are getting nearer to Tibet the Buddhist influence is becoming stronger. We passed a number of Stupas and prayer walls.
The accommodation in Bihi is the best so far. Clean rooms, hot shower, power point in the room. It doesn’t take much to please us.
19 Oct Bihi to Serang Gompa
Last night we had the sounds of Symbols and Bells for most of the night. Apparently it’s because someone had died 12 months ago, the noise is intended to keep the ghost away from the house.
Today we are leaving the main Manaslu trail and climbing up to Serang Gompa. It’s a monestry high up in a remote valley. We are staying there two nights. The Gompa is at 3050m so we will get a chance to get acclimatised to the altitude.
The trek is up, up, up. Lots and lots of stairs. All made of stone or concrete. Some have a low fence on the downhill side, most don’t. For a lot of the way it’s a sheer 500m drop of the stairs. They zig zag up the face of a cliff.
There are also lots of suspension bridges. I have lost count of how many we have been over.
All up it was 9.1km for the day. Took us 6 hrs. 1328m ascent, 417m descent. The trail often goes back down to a bridge after an ascent.
We finally arrived at the Gompa about 2pm. Closely followed by the porters. We thought they would be exhausted but they managed to play soccer with all the local kids for an hour. Unbelievably fit!
20 Oct Serang Gompa
Today was a rest day. We got to sleep in till 8am. The monks of course started clanging and banging things at about 5am. So not much of a sleep in.
When we arrived yesterday the top of the mountains were in cloud. This morning it is clear. We can now see what a spectacular location the Gompa is in. Surrounded on all sides by 6000m peaks it really is a beautiful place.
Mountains surrounding the Gompa
Lapuchung 5968m
Chhachung 5996m
Dwijen Himal 6169m
Serang Himal 6300m
Chamar North 7165m
Chamar 7161m
Rani peak 6693m
After breakfast we went for a wander up to one of the most sacred Buddhist water sources. It was a scramble across a river and up to a beautiful grove of ancient cedar trees. They surrounded the water source along with a lot of prayer flags.
We also did a tour of the monastery. It has been here for 600 years.
21 Oct Serang Gompa to Ghap
An early start today as we have a big climb and a huge descent. We want to get the climbing done before it gets too hot.
The weather has been kind again. Clear blue skies and no wind. The snow capped peaks are standing out in the morning sun.
The trail winds up through the forest just above a huge cliff. 500 meters below us we can see the suspension bridge we crossed two days ago. Everywhere below us is like an arial photo.
By lunchtime we had reached the high point of the day at 3505 meters. We had a 180 deg view of the valley below, in the distance we could see the summit of Manaslu 8163m.
Then it was down, down to Ghap via Kwak. I lost count of the switchbacks. There were hundreds. All up for the day 15.2km in 8h 22m. 1119m ascent, 2012m descent. There are a lot of tired legs tonight.
22 Oct Ghap to Hinang Gompa
Breakfast today was mixed vegetable and chapati. It’s what the crew have been have been eating for breakfast. Much better than the Tibetan bread which seems to vary a lot between tea houses.
Most of the walk today is along the main route. Lots of other trekkers.
At the top of a small rise we arrived at a “bakery”. Lots of apple slice, apple and chocolate scrolls and the most popular chocolate and apple balls. These tasted like a rich chocolate brownie. Very popular!
For lunch we stopped in Namrung. The owner of the tea house also owns the bakery.
The track continued to climb along the river for a few km. Then we left the main trail and climbed to Hinang Gompa.
A lot of the Gompa is still under construction. It was destroyed in the earthquake years ago.
A few of us attended the service in the main temple. The students ran the whole service. Lots of chanting and banging of drums and symbols.
23 Oct Hinang Gompa to Shyala
Pretty cold overnight. The trekkers in tents all had frost on top.
Breakfast was traditional Tibetan. A curry of beans with scrolls made of dough. Not my favourite 😞
We are still on the main trail. So lots of other trekkers.
We were all tired by the time we arrived at Shyala. The altitude is starting to affect us. Shyala is at 3500m. Most of us are now taking Diamox to help with the aclimatization.
24 Oct Shyala to Samagaon
Cold night with a little bit of rain just after dinner. The rooms are very breezy, with large gaps between the window frames and the stone walls. All the internal walls and floor have gaps so it’s not much warmer than outside.
This morning we woke to blue skies and spectacular views of Manaslu and Ngadi Chili. Lots of photos!
We have had advice that some bad weather is expected the day we were due to cross Larkya La (Larkya pass) at 5160m. To avoid this we have changed plan so we cross the pass a day earlier.
Today was an easy 5km stroll to Samagaon at 3500m.
Every night we sleep at high altitude helps with the aclimatization.
This afternoon we did a side trip to help acclimatise up to Birendra Lake at 3700m. Beautiful glacial lake. Most of the glacier has retreated and left a large terminal moraine. Everyone that visits builds a small cairn. There are hundreds of them.
