The Carr Boyd Range is a rugged mountain range located in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia, south of Kununurra and west of Lake Argyle. It is known for its deep gorges, waterfalls, and beautiful fern-lined pools that offer excellent opportunities for bushwalking and swimming.
This is an exploratory walk in the northern section of the range. To get to the start we have a boat trip up the Ord River and finishing with a taxi rendezvous on the Victoria Highway, west of Kununurra
12-Jun
The boat ride up the Ord River was part of the daily tourist trip. Along the way we were entertained by Mabo our local boat captain and guide who showed us all the sites and used his full repitior of jokes. He also put on an excellent lunch for us.
After lunch and a bit of manauvering he managed to drop us off at the Tripple J canoe camp site. From here it was a pleasant but hot walk up stream to a good camp in amongst some small gums.
Overnight we heard lots of rustling in the undergrowth. It turned out to be cane toads😳
13-Jun
An early start at 7am to avoid the heat. We followed the creek up through the gorges.
Dave managed to trip and do a full face plant into a Pandani. After he extracted himself we found a few scratches on his head and hands but ok otherwise.
As we progressed up the gorge the water falls and swimming holes got much bigger. It has been a big wet season in the Kimberley so lots of water around.
By lunch time we arrived at a perfect shaded campsite right next to a huge waterfall and swimming hole. So we decided to camp here for the night. Gary did a short reconnicance to the next waterhole just to confirm.
14-Jun
We reluctantly left the huge pool and Waterfall and headed upstream. There were more waterfalls and pools along the way but limited camping.
Later in the morning a helicopter circled us and landed near the last pool and Waterfall. We think he had a couple of tourists on board.
From here we went up over a ridge to the next creek system. We followed this downstream to where Damien thought we could camp. No luck there. Huge waterholes but no flat spots to camp. So we pressed on through the scrub and swamp till we found some level ground. Unfortunately there was no swimming hole🙁
15-Jun
Up bright and early again after a quiet night. We followed the creek downstream past a couple of camps that were better than last night. The gorge opened out and the creek changed to a series of big waterholes. The largest was the size of four or five Olympic pools.
Early morning we arrived at a series of cascades down a narrow gorge. Di had swam the gorge last year when Damien led a trip in this area. Every one was in for a swim. By now the crew were getting used to my plan of just going in with all my clothes and boots on. Gives them a quick wash!
Gary had discovered a small tick on his butt. Di produced the kit to freeze the tick before she extracted it with some tweezers. Lots of photos and a video of the extraction. Lots of butt jokes🤗
We traversed around from the swimming gorge till we arrived at Pack Saddle Creek. After a short reconnicance we found some suitable camping and set up for the night. Right next to a series of small waterfalls and swimming holes. Lots of swimming😍
What is the last thing you would expect to see in a remote part of the Kimberly? Ghurka soldiers. We heard them singing before we saw them rock hopping down Packsaddle Creek. A group of 10 Nepalese soldiers with an Aussie guide. After some introductions it turned out they were assigned as policemen in Singapore. This expedition was a leadership training course for them in a completly alien landscape. They headed off to a campsite downstream from us.
Night closed in and we cooked dinner. Three head torches appeared out of the dark. The Aussie leader and two of the Ghurkas had come up tell us a little about themselves and to get some Intel on the land to the south.
Demonstrations of how to use the kukurie (Ghurka knife) ensued. Then lots of pointing out map features.
16-Jun
Off early again. Headed upstream along Packsaddle Creek for 1/2 km. Then followed a fault line up over a ridge. Very hot this morning. Lots of rock scrambling up the fault line.
Then a steady descent down another fault line. This opened out to a broad valley. Lots of shallow water holes. We followed this down till it met up with another creek. The camping was very limited here so we explored a long way downstream. Lots of great swimming holes but no campsites. So back upstream with lots of swimming on the way. Finally we set up camp in the river bed.
Gina had headed off to look for birds while we sat around. The wildlife came to us. First up two kangaroos jumped down toward us at the water hole. They only stopped a meter short of me and Di before they realised their mistake and turned away. Then another jumped straight to Gary and stopped right next to him. He said hello and the startled roo hopped off.
17-Jun
Every morning one of us is up at 4.30am to light the fire. We need the Billy boiling by 5am for everyone to have breakfast. It’s well before sunrise so the coolest time of the day.
By 7am we are off downstream again. Passing all the waterholes we swam in yesterday. High above one of the waterholes is a series of caves that go far back into the cliff. All of them were checked for artwork with no luck. The floor of the caves were worn quite smooth. The assumption is that it was caused by human inhabitants.
By 10am we arrived at a huge cliff with a Waterfall. The height of the falls was estimated at 50 meters and the adjacent cliff at 75 meters. Below the waterfall was another huge swimming hole. Lots of photos and a swim🤗
The plan was to camp at the base of the cliff. It was not to be, lots of rocks and no level areas suitable for even a small tent.
Gary did a recon downstream to look for a camp spot. He found a suitable but cramped place about 150m down the gorge.
The group decided to have lunch and dinner at the waterhole.
Murray cooked up some bread that he mixed and kneaded on a bag layed over the warm rocks. After it had risen he baked it in the coals. It was delicious 😋
18-Jun
Scrubby start to the day. Lots of scrambling for the first 400 metres till we got to the Junction of the unnamed creek we were following and Packsaddle Creek.
19-Jun
Lots of rock scrambling this morning. The route along the river Gorge is challenging with boulder fields and small cliffs. Lots of good long swimming pools but not as picturesque as last night. After a kilometre or so we came across a huge rock arch that had been carved out by the river. Lots of photos and comparisons with other arches.
The valley opened up into a broad savannah covered in head high bamboo grass then boab trees and spinifex. We were now seeing lots of signs of cattle. Eventually we arrived on the flood plains of the Duhram River.
Damien picked a crossing point for the Duhram upstream from a large water hole where we suspect there are salt water crocks. The crossing was knee deep and uneventful 😁 After crossing and collecting some water I noticed a small Croc upstream. It was either a freshie (fresh water Croc) or a juvenile saltie (salt water Croc).
The crew proceeded along the west bank of the Duhram for about a km till we found a shady campsite.
20-Jun
An unevenfull walk back across the flood plains to the main highway into Kununurra. Gina was seeing a lot more birds along the way. Everyone was glad to get into town for a shower and some different food.