6 Dec Queenstown to Macetown
Off to a flying start. We caught the bus from Queenstown to Arrowtown. This cut out 30km of boring road walking through the burbs for $4 each 😜
Then we took the seniors route from Arrowtown to Macetown. It just follows the river up on a four wheel drive track. Instead of the TA route over Big Hill, which has a big climb and descent. The downside is there are about 30 river crossings.
Found a nice sheltered campsite for the night. We are expecting some rain later tonight. Lots of sandflies!
Dave used his landscaping expertise and picked a site that would get morning sun long before we did. Problem was it was in Carrum Downs (Melbourne joke – it’s where the sewerage treatment plant is. Upside is he had his own ensuite).
7 Dec Macetown to Roses hut
Big decision today. Wade up the river for the first 4km or take the high route that contours above the river but is narrow and overgrown in places. Last time we went down the river. Went with the high route to avoid wading upstream. Most of the route was ok.
When the track leaves the river it’s a steep 600m climb, followed by a 500m descent. We made the climb before lunch with blue skies and fantastic views.
After lunch it was a long descent to Roses hut. In the distance we could see Lake Wanaka.
Pauline spent an hour or so with her injured Achilles in the creek. The long climb had aggrevated it. She is still wearing the designer shoe with no heel box.
Late in the day we had new tenants in the hut. One from the Netherlands, one from Colorado and one from NZ. Long discussions of US politics followed. Our new friend from Colorado had studied political science at university. So we now have a better understanding of how their system works (or doesn’t work)
8 Dec Roses hut to Highland Creek hut.
Today’s trip was along the Montatapu track. It’s an “idle” (500m ascent) part way up Knuckle Peak. Followed by a 400m descent. Followed by a 400m climb then a 350m descent to Highland Creek hut.
So a pretty tough day for us all.
Tonight we were joined by Sarah (NZ) and Courtney (US-Co). Lots of swapping stories and future destinations. Always enjoyable to meet such intelligent people! Yes we are already plotting the next couple of trips. They were both headed south, hope they made it over the narrow ridges and big climbs before the weather changed.
9 Dec Highland Creek hut to Wanaka
Today was a 15km walk out to civilisation. Up over Jack Halls saddle at 1275m. A 400m climb up a narrow ridge. The weather was forecast to close in later so we were keen to get going. We also saw some wild goats on this climb.
From Jack Halls saddle it was a narrow windy descent to Fern Burn hut.
It was mostly downhill from here to the camping ground at Glendhu on Lake Wanaka. Along the way it went through some really pretty beech forrest.
Pauline was a very happy camper when her new best friend from Wanaka Taxis arrived and drove us to our accommodation in Wanaka. No road walking for us if there is a taxi!
10 Dec to 12 Dec Wanaka rest days
Today our FIFO (Fly In Fly Out) hiker Dave left us. He has gone home using the excuse of Xmas. We are hoping he will come back in two weeks. We will miss his humorous banter on almost any topic.
We are washing everything and have sent home with Dave anything that we aren’t using or aren’t likely to use. We don’t want to carry stuff we don’t use.
We are expecting the weather to get better as we go north and December progresses so no need for umbrellas and extra thermals.
Murray has hiked out to Mitre 10 to get some stick on Velcro so he can attach his Lycra gaiters to his shoes. The old strip of Velcro had fallen off.
12 Dec Wanaka to Pakituhi hut
Have had enough of lounging around and eating lots. Today’s is a short walk, only 4km. We have a taxi taking us to the start of the walking track up Breast Hill. This is one of the best views on the TA.
It’s only 4km to the hut but by fitter! The sign at the start said 4-5 hours to the hut. We did it in 3 😉
Lots of photos of the spectacular view. In the distance we can see Mt Aspiring.
Tomorrow we will go over Breast Hill which is a bit higher than we went today.
Tonight we are in the very cosy Pakituhi hut which was built in 2011. It has double glazed windows and an airtight door as well as sleeping platforms. Very comfortable. Its what should have been built on the Grampians Peaks Trail in Victoria (Aus) instead of the impractical architectural follies that we ended up with.
13 Dec Pakituhi hut to Stodys hut.
This was an intentionally short day, only 11km. The views over the top of Breast Hill are breathtaking. We sat for a couple of hours on top taking it in.
Stodys hut is an old one that Docs have done some work to tidy up. It still has a dirt floor and resident mouse population. There is even a sign to hang packs to avoid them trying to chew things.
To avoid the rodents we put the tent up in an idealic camp site just down from the hut. No sand flies, nice outlook, quiet night listening to the birds.
All this came to an abrupt end when the wind picked up about 8pm. The gusts were so strong we bailed out and joined Murray and the mice in the hut.
14 Dec Stodys hut to Top Timaru hut.
NZ turned on a blue sky day for us. Just as well as we have the decent from hell this morning. 500m descent in 1.5km, hard on the knees. Followed by 11km up the Timaru River. A lot of the way we will be in it.
Again we have to decide do we take the high water trail or just wade up the river. We have been asking all the SOBOs which way they went. Didn’t get a clear answer. We decided wading up river would be more work so we have taken the high track.
Tough day following the high track. I think walking in the river would have been the way to go.
The hut is a recent 6 bunk. Murray got a bed. We put up the tent as we only have a double doonah and mat which wouldn’t fit in the hut.
All was well until the wind picked up during the night. So not much sleep.
15 Dec Top Timaru hut to Birchwood private hut
One of the locals said today was going to be hot. We also got a forecast from the InReach (satellite) that said it would be fine. The forecast from the Windy App 3 days ago forecast rain.
So this morning we have Gail force winds and heavy showers. We set off early to avoid the heat 😕. Just one climb for the day, 800m over Martha Saddle. On with the wet weather gear and let the tail wind push us up the mountain.
We were up and over the saddle by 10. Great climbing by the seniors! Then followed a long descent on a disused old farm track. We made good time and arrived at the old muster hut by lunchtime.
We are staying here all afternoon and tonight. Dont want to get to Twizel before our accommodation is available.
It’s still blowing a gale 😒. Glad we aren’t camping. The old tin hut is creaking in the wind.
16 Dec Birchwood private hut to Quailburn hut
An easy start to the day along a good farm road. We made the Ahariri River before lunch.
The Ahariri is the biggest river we have to cross on the TA. It didn’t look to be running too high. We picked a line that looked good. Unclipped packs and linked arms for the crossing. The deepest part was just on crutch depth so no real problem.
We worked our way up the valley till we got near Quailburn hut. Pauline was keen to find a campsite so we could avoid the hut. The notes on it said it was unmaintained and had a resident population of mice😳
She managed to find a level campsite for 2 tents out of the wind just across the valley from the hut.
17 Dec Quailburn camp to Lake Oahu Lodge
I had managed to mess up the food calculations for this section. I was a day short. To avoid the issue we opted to hike to Lake Oahu Lodge and stay the night. Complete with dinner and cooked breakfast.
The weather forecast was for 50% chance of 0mm rain. Instead we got strong winds and occasional showers. So a long climb and descent later we made it to the lodge. Hot showers!
Dinner is a set menu at 7pm. Well after our normal bed time. Still for a Pig out we can make an exception🐷.
18 Dec Lake Oahu Lodge to Twizel
Who knew Kon Tiki tours still existed? There was a bunch of young partee girls at the lodge last night. Apparently they were up till 2am having a good time. We slept through it all😔
The lodge is about 35km from Twizel. Stupid me booked an Uber as there is no taxi or bus service (try anything once). Uber allocated a driver and we were all set for pickup at 11am. At 10.50am Uber tells us there is no driver and gives our money back. Camper not happy and has uninstalled the Uber myth.😢
We set off walking with the intention of hitching if possibile. We didn’t make it out of the lodge car park before Pauline had bailed up a ride. They had been dropping off bikes at the lodge and took us about 25km to the main road. Only 13km to go😎.
Didn’t have much luck hitching as a group of three so Murray headed off on his own to try his luck.
We got a ride with a great couple from Holland who had been here on holiday. They had to empty all the gear out of the back seat into the boot before we could get in. They are hikers so we spent a lot of time on the side of the road in Twizel talking gear and places to go. Then Murray appeared after about 10 mins. He had got a ride just after us. Who needs Uber!
19 Dec Twizel
Easy rest day. Just getting re-supply and arranging transport for the next section and eating a lot.
20 Dec Twizel to Lake Tekapo, Boundary Stream
Easy start to today. Posted off food drop to the next town.
We are catching the bus from Twizel to Lake Tekapo to avoid the long boring walk along a huge canal. Cuts out about 55km of road walking.
It’s still a 15km walk along roads around Lake Tekapo to get to the first place we are allowed to camp at Boundary Stream.
Pauline has a big bag of excess food we bought while in Twizel. It’s coming on the bus with us for lunch. A common problem we have when we get to a town is buying too much food🐷🐷.
Tomorrow we will pass the 400km mark. 🎂
Happy campers🏕️. We got a ride for the last 7km to the campsite! Just lucky, the driver had a job further up the valley and they only come to Lake Tekapo once a week.
Pauline is now wearing her new shoes. All good so far, but only road walking today.
21 Dec Boundary Stream to Camp stream hut
The weather has finally started to warm up. We started early to avoid the heat. By 9am we were dunking our hats and shirts in each creek we crossed. By lunch time it was into each creek clothes and all. They are usually dry within the hour.
We had a pretty easy day. 19km along a bench with a drop back to the river before we got to Camp stream hut.
Met a couple from Oz at the hut. Both worked for Outward Bound. They had taken 6 months off and were touring around NZ.
This hut is tiny so we put the tent up.
22 Dec Camp stream hut to Royal hut
Early start again. The trek today goes up a long ridge that has some of the best views in NZ. Lots of stopping and taking photos.
We saw more TA hikers today than we have seen in a couple of weeks. Nearly all of them SOBOs. I think they were all heading out to Lake Tekapo for Xmas.
We also met “ocky” strap man. Legendary for holding his pack cover on with stretchy straps. (heavy way to do it) He was having trouble with his feet. Leather boots and NZ rivers do not mix – fungal infections! We tried to convince him to wear runners with mesh uppers and no Gortex. No luck there.
23 Dec Royal hut to Stone hut
Royal hut is allegedly where Charles and Diana visited when in NZ. It has a small grass and rock airstrip. You didn’t think they hiked there?
Seniors day off. Only 6km gradual downhill to Stone hut. We were there before lunch.
Whiled away the afternoon with other hikers. One NOBO from Italy and two SOBOs, one from NZ and one from the Netherlands. Solved the world’s problems again 👍.
Later in the afternoon Alberto arrived. He is from Italy. Been touring Australia and New Zealand for a couple of years. This is his contribution to the TA menu.
Few scattered showers this afternoon. Supposed to rain overnight and a few showers tomorrow afternoon. We are keeping a watch on the rainfall. We have to do a lot of river crossings in two days.
24 Dec Stone hut to Crooked Spur hut
The track deviates from Bush Stream below Stone hut. It is avoiding the narrow gorges. A lot of up and down.
We met a family out on a hunting trip. Dad, mum and two kids. They were out looking for Tzar. It’s a large Nepalese goat that was introduced years ago. This part of NZ is the only place in the world where you can hunt them.
25 Dec Crooked Spur hut to Bush Stream car park.
We have booked a bus to pick us up from Bush Stream car park tomorrow at 10am. Today we will walk out most of the way and camp so we don’t miss the bus.
Really steep descent from Crooked Spur hut. You can tell it’s steep because there are switchbacks. The Kiwis don’t normally do them.
Then it’s lots of river crossings downstream toward the car park. If you pick a good line they are usually below my knee depth.
26 Dec Bush Stream car park
We found a reasonable camp site a couple of km upstream. All good except in the morning. Loooots of sand flies😢
Wayne from Alps2ocean turned up on time with 4 SOBOs on board. After a quick exchange of where the best ice-creams were we loaded up and headed off to Geraldine and two nights rest.
Pauline’s new shoes have worked out well. No more Achilles problems 😎😎
