We have finally managed to get away despite Covid-19. Off to do the coastal part of the Great South West Walk.
We decided to just do the coastal part as it’s winter here and we don’t want to push our luck with the weather. We also heard there are lots of leeches on the inland route so will save that for summer.
Fri 26 – Nelson to Lake Mombeong
Early start at Nelson today (end of Beach Rd). Up before dawn and off by 7 am. We had to get the 20 km section along the beach to Lake Mombeong Camp done well before high tide. Low tide was at 7.22 am.
Easy walking along hard sand till we got to Nobles Rocks track. Then we went inland. The inland track is in excellent condition and is a great alternative to the sand. It also gave us a way to avoid the incoming tide for about half of the day.
We found out why the track was in such good condition later in the day when we met up with Rob and Kieth who volunteer to maintain it. Rob has been doing it for 30 years! They mow and trim the 9 km of track three times a year. Fantastic effort guys!
We arrived at Lake Mombeong camp about 13.00. We had to have lunch while we waited for Rob to mow the hikers campsite. Great service!
Huge campground for drive in campers. The walkers have a separate area with shelter and grassed area. The campsite even has flushing toilets!
Sat 27 – Lake Mombeong to Swan Lake camp.
Low tide is at 8.13 am today. High tide is not as high as yesterday.
16 km along the beach today. Glad high tide is later today. Parts of the beach would not be walk-able at high tide. You would have to take to the dunes.
Arrived at Swan Lake campground after negotiating the huge dunes. Lots of dune buggy tracks everywhere. Huge campground! Don’t think I would want to be here in summer holidays. It’s Dune Buggy heaven. The hiker area is in the north west corner away from most of the drive in camps. Well sheltered area with great cooking shelter.
Sun 28 – Swan Lake camp to Springs camp.
Last big day on the beach. 21 km all up, about half of it on the sand. Low tide is at about 9am, so not as big a rush to get off the beach.
Lots of huge gutters parallel to the beach. Pauline spotted a dolphin in one. We also saw two whales well out to sea, one was breaching.
Lots of places along the beach are quite narrow. Some were not passable only two hours after low tide.
The track left the beach and meandered around till we ended up along the edge of the cliffs. Spectacular views!
Springs camp is fantastic. Hidden in the bushes well back from the cliff tops. Really sheltered site with grassed areas for tents. Most sites get the morning sun 🙂 The siting of the camps has obviously been done by a hiker.
Camped with a family from Daylesford who we have never met before!
Mon 29 – Springs Camp to Trewalla Camp
15 km section primarily along the top of the cliffs.
We had a late start today, no pressure with tides! More great views along the cliff tops. We spent quite a bit of time watching the two big Seal colonies at the tip of Cape Bridgewater. The volunteers have been at it again, fantastic viewing platforms and vantage points all the way!
We stopped in at Cape Bridgewater cafe. Good Hot Chocolate and home made Hedgehog. They also have a great range of other home made pastries and slices.
From Cape Bridgewater we headed along the beach. I missed the turnoff to the inland route which is about 2 km after Cape Bridgewater cafe. I would recommend the inland route. The sand on the beach is quite soft and almost sticky the entire way. To top this off the exit stairs from the end of the beach have been washed away, so its a hard slog.
Trewalla campsite is very sheltered and well away from the beach. The camps sites are spread out among the scrub. Lots of camp sites, but not many level ones.
Tue 30 – Trewalla Camp to Mallee Camp
14.8km section. The first part is along the beach then up along the cliffs.
More beach walking! Pauline is over it by now 🙁 About half way along the beach section there are four old shipping containers that have fallen off a ship. Apparently no one owns them, so there they will stay. This beach has no road access so expensive to recover the remains.
Early afternoon we arrived at Cape Nelson Light House to find the cafe shut! Very disappointing, no hot chocolate 🙁
It was another hour or so around from the light house to the new Mallee camp site. It’s hidden away in a gully and quite sheltered. The site has about ten raised tent platforms made of timber and sand and the usual toilet and two sided cooking shelter.
Wed 1 – Mallee Camp to Portland
Today it was going to be a 21.7 km walk back to Portland along the cliffs. The last half of this section is past the Aluminium smelter and the port. The weather was supposed to close in mid afternoon. We decided that the weather and smelter were a good reason to bail out at Yellow Rocks track, then go inland back to the car, 16 km for the day.
Along the way the volunteers have been at it again. Lots of viewing points and they have built a walk through the Enchanted Forest which is fantastic.
There were a few surfers having a go in the poor surf out at Yellow Rock track. Pauline used to be a surfie, she didn’t think much of the conditions. Only the die-hards would be out today. We watched them for a while, then headed inland back to the car, a motel and a shower.
Notes
The coastal section involves a lot of beach walking. Much easier at low tide! I would suggest planning each day so that low tide occurs about half way along each section if possible. The easiest walking is just adjacent to the waters edge. We used the Willy Weather App to check the tides.
Prevailing winds are from the West. I suggest you hike West to East along the coastal section so you have a tail wind.
You can post food drops to yourself at the Nelson Post Office. They apparently will open up on weekends so you can pick up. I suggest you confirm this first. The local volunteers can also do food drops for a donation, they suggested Moleside camp and Tarragal camp as good drop points.